The Gold of the Lakes:
Perch Risotto from Boogie Bistrot

Perch Risotto: The Authentic Flavor of Lombard Lakes

Perch risotto is much more than a simple dish: it's the history of Lombard lakes encapsulated in a recipe. Every forkful tells of crystal-clear waters, centuries-old traditions, and a delicate flavor that has crossed generations. Today we take you to discover this delicacy from Boogie Bistrot, a gastronomic journey through the shores of Northern Italy's lakes.

History and Origins of the Dish

Contrary to what the name might suggest, perch is not originally from Persia. Its etymology derives from the Greek perke and Latin perca, which we find in its scientific classification, Perca fluviatilis. This fish with prized meat was introduced to Italian lakes from Switzerland during the 18th century, although it is often considered native to Lombard waters.

Perch was already known and appreciated in Roman times, but it arrived in Italian lakes much later. However, its connection with Lombard cuisine has become so strong that today it represents one of the symbol dishes of the region, particularly of Lake Como.

The first evidence of the gastronomic use of perch in Italy dates back to the 15th century, when Master Martino from Como included it in his recipe book "Libro de Arte Coquinaria," suggesting methods for boiling or frying it depending on its size. Originally, perch was mainly served as a second course, grilled or fried, but it found its highest expression when it was paired with risotto on the shores of Lake Como.

The tradition of "riso in cagnone" – the name derives from the Lombard dialect "cagnun" meaning insect larva, due to the shape the rice takes once cooked – initially involved boiled rice seasoned with butter, garlic, and sage, then enriched with floured and fried perch fillets. Over time, this simple preparation has evolved into today's creamy risotto, elevating a dish of peasant origin to a high cuisine delicacy.

Characteristics of Perch

Perch is a freshwater fish with white, lean meat and a firm, compact consistency. Its nutritional qualities make it a valuable food:

• Rich in noble proteins and easily digestible
• Contains numerous minerals (potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and calcium)
• Source of vitamins A, C, E, B6, B12, and K
• Very lean, with only 75 calories per 100 grams

The flavor is delicate but well-defined, with a taste that recalls the freshness of the lakes where it lives. It should not be confused with African perch (larger and less prized), often present in markets at a cheaper price but of inferior quality.
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The Boogie Bistrot Recipe

Boogie Bistrot offers an elegant and refined version of this Lombard classic, with an interpretation that enhances tradition while adding a touch of creativity. Here's their recipe:

Ingredients (for 4 people)

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 1 liter vegetable broth
• 1/2 glass dry white wine
• 50g butter for creaming
• 100g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 24 perch fillets
• All-purpose flour as needed
• 2 eggs
• Breadcrumbs as needed
• Butter for cooking the fillets
• Fresh sage leaves
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. For the risotto:
   • In a thick-bottomed pot, toast the rice dry for about a minute, stirring continuously.
   • Pour in the white wine and let it evaporate.
   • Add the hot broth little by little, continuing to cook for about 18 minutes and stirring regularly.
   • When cooking is complete, remove from heat and cream with butter and Parmesan, stirring vigorously until a creamy consistency is obtained. Adjust salt and pepper.
2. For the perch fillets:
   • Dip the perch fillets first in flour, then in beaten egg, and finally in breadcrumbs.
   • In a pan, melt plenty of butter with some sage leaves.
   • Fry the perch fillets in butter until golden, turning them gently. They should be crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.
   • Drain on absorbent paper and lightly salt.
3. Plating:
   • Place the creamed risotto in the center of the plate.
   • Arrange 6 breaded perch fillets on top of the risotto.
   • Decorate with a few fried sage leaves and serve immediately.

Tasting Notes

This dish represents a perfect balance between the creaminess of the risotto and the crunchiness of the fish fillets. The delicate flavor of perch pairs perfectly with the richness of the creamed rice, while the aromatic note of sage adds a touch of freshness to the whole.

It is recommended to accompany the risotto with a dry white wine from the region, such as a Lugana or a Franciacorta Brut, perfect for balancing the richness of the dish without covering its delicate flavors.

Fun Facts

In some areas of Lake Como, perch risotto is still prepared today according to the oldest recipe, serving boiled rice seasoned with melted butter and sage, with perch fillets arranged in a radial pattern as the main element of the dish. This version is called "riso in cagnone con pesce persico."

In 2023, the Academy of Perch Risotto was also established, an initiative of the Castelnovo family from Cremia, on Lake Como, to safeguard and spread this traditional recipe, considered one of the symbol dishes of Lake Como.

The perch risotto from Boogie Bistrot is a tribute to Lombard culinary traditions, a dish that tells the story of our lakes and will let you discover the authentic flavor of a territory rich in gastronomic culture. An experience not to be missed for those who love delicate but character-rich flavors that only quality products can offer.

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